Voie Vezelay Day 13 Neuvy Saint Sepulchre to Gargilesse Dampierre 24.44 km
A very wet and windy day. Rain did stop for a short wile in the middle of the day and for the finish. Highlights seeking refuge from the wind and rain in the Église Saint-Paxent de Cluis, walking over a huge viaduct and this little village on a steep hillside where I am now.
Scattered light showers! Thought I would just use the umbrella. Wrong. 10 min walking and a wardrobe change. Sandals off shoes on, its cold so light windbreaker on, poncho on. The poncho is a nightmare to get on and off over the backpack. I now put the poncho on and then put the backpack on underneath it. Should have taken some contortionist lessons.
My GPX track
Arrived at the town of Cluis where I have to buy food from the small shop which is open! There is nothing where I am staying tonight. The wind is blowing the rain under the shelter outside the shop.
Now very cold and wet I have actually sought sanctuary in a church as the only dry place I could find to take backpack off put in the microwave meal I just bought and have brunch. Thank goodness the churches are open have seats and are dry!
OK, so it seems I am not the first pilgrim to have done this. The Église Saint-Paxent de Cluis a very old church built in the 12th century and has been welcoming pilgrims for hundreds of years. They even have a pilgrims welcome and a stamp for my credential. The church is open but empty as they almost always are.
So I had a beer left over from last night and needed to get rid of the weight, so beer, potato chips and a Mars bar on a church pew in 12th century church next to Saint Laurent and Joan of Arc. Don’t get to do that every day.
Just outside of Cluis I crossed the Viaduc de Cluis, this spectacular structure, completed in 1889, is made up of 20 arches of 25 meters each and a height of 40 meters. Such a huge construction just so I can walk over to the other side of the valley. But boy was it wet and windy in the middle. The rain stopped when I reached the other side. So I had to take a detour to see the viaduct from below. Well worth the effort.
Great private room Accommodation tonight is at the municipal pilgrim refuge right next to the fortified church. The walls of my room are over 2ft thick. There are 3 power line workers staying here as well. Don’t know where the Belgians got to.
Love that the church bells ring for a few minutes every day at 7pm. Signals that working (or for me walking) day is over.
Gargilesse-Dampierre is small touristy artists village built on the side of a steep valley wall. It is classified as one of “The most beautiful villages of France” and is situated near the confluence of the Gargilesse stream and the river Creuse. The 19th century writer George Sand lived in the village.
There is a by donation concert in the church this evening. Starts at 9pm so may go along to that. 7:30pm there is a big que outside the church already!!